THE SKIN’S MICROBIOME:
A DEEP DIVE

 

AN OPENING NOTE: From Laurel

While I enjoy deep dives into topics where we can all unfurl the various lifestyle aspects affecting our individualized skin health, it’s important to not to become too stressed about a perfect microbiome. For most people, one or two changes are all they need to restore balance and enjoy the benefits of a thriving and intact microbiome. Getting outside more and removing harmful substances are often the simplest path to diversify and restore our skin flora in an impactful way – and that quest should be an enjoyable one!

 

THE MICROBIOME: Your Personalized Ecosystem

The microbiome is a rich, diverse, and beautiful orchestra of biotic flora activity living on the surface of our skin. Serving as our first line of immune defense, it plays a pivotal role in shaping functionality, determining things like how the skin ages and how it will respond to topical products, internal nutrients and other pathogens we come in contact with. With over 1000 identified species of skin flora, bacteria, and fungi colonizing each individual’s skin, the microbiome stands as a personalized ecosystem, unique to you.

At Laurel Skin, our approach to skin health is rooted in understanding and supporting the health of the microbiome. We formulate and educate with the belief that the impact of our well-intentioned efforts to care for our skin hinges on the health and quality of our microbiome.

 

MICROBIOME WELLNESS: The Power in Diversity

Our skin’s microbiome is shaped by a delicate interplay of both intrinsic (inside the body) and extrinsic (outside the body) factors. Intrinsic influences, stemming from within our bodies, encompass age, genetics, gender, and natural immunity, hormones, sleep, stress, and metabolism. Extrinsic factors, arising from our external environment, include aspects like our self-care rituals, skincare practices, exposure to chemicals, topical antibiotic use, UV exposure, climate, and air and water pollution. At Laurel Skin, there is one vital factor that we place at the foundation of everything we do: the availability of nutrients for the microorganisms on the surface of the skin — essentially, the diet of our Microbiome! All of or products are formulated to feed, balance, and protect the microbiome. Without a diverse microbiome, which comes from a diverse topical diet, we cannot have vibrant skin health! More on our best ingredients and products for the Microbiome later.

 

DISRUPTED: Challenges of the Microbiome

The health of the microbiome is often overlooked in mainstream skincare education, and many of us discover that we have one only when disruptions manifest as long-standing skin challenges. Caring for our microbiome is less about what we include and more about what we avoid – both in terms of products and daily habits. For example, many skincare practices that seem quite benign should be considered carefully as they have a significant impact on the delicate balance of microbiome diversity. Disturbances of species composition, internal interactions, and the relationships between microbes and pathogens can lead to dysbiosis, contributing to various skin concerns and diseases. Some of the main causes of microbiome disruption as they pertain to skin care:

Foaming Cleansers – Even “gentle” foaming cleansers remove our vital lipid layer, rinsing our microbe population DOWN THE DRAIN!  Not only that, but we are also removing their nutrient source and altering their habitat, leaving our skin’s vital barrier weakened and vulnerable. Our skin cannot replenish daily, which leads to a persistent state of vulnerability. More on that below.

Antibiotics –the word says it all: “anti” and “biota”, meaning “opposing life”. While sometimes unavoidable, their use eliminates entire microbe populations, impacting the skin’s microbiome. Antibiotics can’t differentiate between harmful and healthy bacteria, leaving diminished diversity. It takes time to restore the microbiome after large parts of the population have been removed. The use of antibiotics should not be taken lightly, and we must do everything we can to reduce the harmful impact left in their wake. Using antibiotic ingredients for acne, such as benzoyl peroxide and salicylic acid, can be detrimental to microbe diversity.

Preservatives – The very nature of preservatives is to prevent bacterial domination, not distinguishing between harmful and beneficial bacteria, leading to the death of life within a skincare product. Preservatives are designed to be effective rather than safe. Some preservatives are more harmful than others. For example, propylene and hexylene glycol, phenoxyethanol, parabens and tricolosan cause more widespread die-off compared to milder preservatives like potassium sorbate and ferments like radish root.

Using fresh skincare with little to no preservatives is one way to safeguard your skin from unnecessary die-off. Pro-Tip: Anhydrous (water-free) skincare doesn’t require preservatives at all, so that is a huge bonus to use when possible!

Strong acids, peels + alcohols –Exfoliation disrupts the skin’s microbiota; there is no way around it. Strong acids, peels, and alcohols break down this microbiota, deplete the ecosystem and leaving the skin vulnerable. Chronic over-exfoliation hinders the skin’s immune system, which is important in managing inflammatory conditions like eczema, rosacea, and various forms of dermatitis.

Diet + Environmental Imbalances – Climate, extreme temperatures, humidity, and diet influence our microbiome. Diets too concentrated in animal products may lack fermentable fibers and beneficial bacteria. Excessive sugar and alcohol affect the gut microbiome, impacting the skin’s external microbiome. Humid climates lacking in sunlight can increase pathogenic bacteria growth. Air pollution also aids pathogenic bacteria growth.

A note about probiotic and isolated bacteria strains: Probiotic skincare is beyond tricky. The very word ‘probiotic” reveals its nature; “pro” = FOR and bios= LIFE.  This implies living microorganisms, and yet preserved products simply can’t maintain this life. If they aren’t living, what are they doing? Beyond that, each individual microbiome is unique by an average of 30%. It would be impossible for most individuals to know exactly which strains they should be supplementing with. The phrase “probiotic skincare” points to a lack of understanding of genuine microbiome health and/or deceptive marketing language. I don’t share this information to discredit any other brand but rather to arm you with knowledge to make informed choices.

 

HELP!: The Skin’s Response

Signs of Microbiome Imbalance:

• Acne: increased occurrence of breakouts and congestion
• Redness + Inflammation: persistent redness or irritation
• Flare-ups of Skin Conditions: such as eczema, psoriasis, rosacea, or dandruff
• Reactionary Rashes: unexplained eruptions or skin rashes
• Sensitivity: heightened sensitivity to skincare products or environmental factors
• Oil Imbalances: fluctuations in skin moisture levels
• Dull or Uneven Skin Tone: diminished vibrancy or uneven tone
• Compromised Barrier Function: weakened skin barrier leading to skin vulnerability, generally present in itchiness and increase in one or more of the conditions listed above.

The biology of our skin is such that our skin’s microbiome struggles to recover from disruptions, unable to replenish its natural lipid and moisture levels rapidly. With frequent disturbances, the microbiome faces chronic imbalance, allowing invasive bacteria to dominate. Maintaining a robust and diverse community of microbes is crucial to keeping our skin in a vibrant and resilient state and to preventing harmful, pathogenic bacteria from moving in and taking over – once that happens, it’s much more difficult to restore balance.

 

RESTORATION: Healing the Microbiome

Restoring a compromised microbiome can often be as simple as adjusting a few skincare habits, such as minimizing the use of preservatives or harmful ingredients and adding more nutrient dense ingredients to further populate beneficial flora. Transitioning from a foaming cleanser to an oil-based formula can be incredibly helpful. If you’re so inclined, fully embracing the vibrant, alive microbiome champions of whole plant skin medicine can be transformational. It doesn’t have to be an all-or-nothing approach though; you can meet yourself where are and still promote longevity and vibrancy.

However, there are a few things that I consider non-negotiable. At the very least, we should all be providing our microbiome what it needs to survive. Survival is a good place to start, isn’t it? That brings us to SKIN FOOD!

We talk a lot about skin food at Laurel Skin because it’s truly vital in order for our microbiome to function optimally. The microorganisms living on the surface of our skin need fuel to survive and they need specific nutrients to truly thrive. It’s important to recognize the dual needs of these microorganisms — some are lipophilic (fat-loving) while others are hydrophilic (water-loving). Therefore, providing a balance of both nutrient groups is essential for optimal microbiome health and resiliency.

For the sake of simplicity, we call this skin food ‘prebiotics’. This food group includes nutrients from starchy plants, high-quality lipids, and water-soluble nutrients. When addressing imbalances in the skin, it’s important to look at all of the skin food groups and consider increasing or adding one that you may be lacking.

While all plants can contribute positively to the microbiome, certain ones stand out as essentials, particularly for those facing challenges due to an imbalanced microbiome. These specific plant allies are some of my most trusted, playing a crucial role in offering support to promote balance and overall microbiome health.

Roots: Marshmallow, Echinacea, Burdock, Dandelion

Raw + Unrefined Oils: Evening Primrose, Sesame, Pomegranate, Olive

Petals + Fruits: Rose, Calendula, Bilberry, Blackberry

Minerals: Nettle, Gotu Kola, Comfrey, Horsetail

 

LAUREL SKIN: Made for the Microbiome

There isn’t a single Laurel Skin product that is not beneficial to the health, repair, and resiliency of your microbiome. That being said, some products offer a nutrient profile that is exceptional for certain microbiome-related skin concerns.

Best Water-Loving Nutrients for Moisture Renewal: Replenishing water-soluble flora-food: Roots, Minerals, Petals + Fruits

• Hydrating Elixir I: for dehydrated, dull and mature skin
• Hydrating Elixir II: for congested, acne-prone and redness-prone skin

Best fat-loving, Lipophilic Nutrients: Vital fat-soluble flora-food: Unrefined Raw Oils, Minerals

• Unburden Serum: for inflamed, compromised and stressed skin
• Balance Serum: for congestion/acne-challenged skin
• Antioxidant Serum: for dull, dry and mature skin

Best High-Dose Superfoods: Nutrient-rich flora-food: Roots, Minerals, Petals + Fruits

• Almond Rose Exfoliant: for all skin types
• Honey Berry Mask: for dry, discolored, and dull skin
• Gentle Mask: for dry, dehydrated, devitalized skin
• Detox Mask: for oily, congested skin types

For Critical Care: Low-dose, gentle, easy-to-digest flora-food: Raw Oils + Petals

• Essentials Lipids: for compromised, vulnerable and imbalanced microbiome
• Calendula Hydrosol: for weakened, inflamed skin in need of repair

 

A CLOSING NOTE: From Laurel

I intend this information to be educational and supportive. I do not share any of this in hopes of discrediting any other brand or approach to wellness. I share this information with the hopes that we can all begin to understand the true transformative power of raw, whole plants and the role they can play in our quest for vibrant, healthy skin. Remember, you should live true to yourself and honor your best efforts, whatever they may be and however they may change throughout your life.

“When it all feels like too much, remember the best way to diversify the microbiome is to go outside. Touch the leaves and trees, play like a child in the dirt, swim in a natural body of water – and plant your bare feet firmly on the ground.”

XO Laurel